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Sample Lake Map Patten Lake - Florence County
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Patten Lake is a 256 acre lake with a maximum depth of 52 feet located 7 miles southwest of Florence. Access is on the west side of the lake. The water is clear and moderately fertile. Weeds are abundant in both the shoreline areas and in the bays. The bottom consists of sand, gravel, muck with some rock. Largemouth bass and walleye are the dominant game fish. Perch and bluegill are the primary panfish.
Largemouth Bass
Patten Lake has been a favorite bass lake for years. Although trophy fish are rare anglers should have no trouble finding action. The action gets under way early, as the bass move into the shallow bay on the north end of the lake. (#1) Look for areas of muck to warm the fastest. Another early season bass producer is the bay on the south end of the lake. (#4) White and yellow spinnerbaits with brass blades have proven most effective. Work the spinnerbaits with a slow rolling retrieve. Soft plastic jerkbaits like Senkos and Flukes can be twitched over the fresh weeds. As summer progresses, the weeds begin to thicken. However, many bass still relate to shallow water. Spinnerbaits continue to produce most of the summer, but weedless spoons are another options. If fishing gets tough, move out to the weedlines. Perch pattern and silver/black pattern crankbaits are a good choice for working the deep weedline. Black or purple pre-rigged worms are deadly on neutral bass. In fall, continue to work the weedlines with crankbaits looking for active bass. Once you locate bass, continue to fish the area but switch over to plastics. On Patten Lake a green pumpkin or watermelon red senko, rigged wacky style can catch a lunker largemouth.
Walleye
There is a special management program under way to help improve the quality of the walleye fishery. Presently there is no minimum length limit on walleye, but only one fish over 14 inches is allowed. Walleye fisherman will have no trouble finding action but large fish are rare. In May, work the point in the north central part of the lake. (#2) Look for isolated patches of gravel and rock. A 1/8 ounce orange jighead with a white twister tail tipped with a fathead minnow is the top bait. Another good spring walleye area is the north side of the 4-foot hump, on the west end of the lake (#6). In fall, work the 14 foot hump on the east end of the lake. (#3) Anchor atop the hump and vertical jig. Orange and chartreuse are both good jig colors. Continue to tip the jig with a fathead minnow or medium red tail chub. Next, drift the deep flat (#5) with a slip sinker rig tipped with a minnow. Use orange floating jigheads and red tail chubs with the slip sinker rig.
Panfish
In spring, expect to find active panfish in shallow bays (#1), (#4). Small minnows fished either with small jigs or a float will take perch and crappie. In summer, work the deep weeds with crawlers and leeches, but don't be surprised if you pick up a bonus walleye. In fall, continue to work the deep water with minnows.
Smallmouth in Natural Lakes
By Early October, big smallmouth in lakes begin to bunch up like they do on the river. Even though lake smallmouth will be stacking up as they search for food, they will be relating to deeper water than in river systems. Deep water smallmouth can be tough in summer but can be caught easily in October. As usual, the ticket is to find the proper location and use the right presentation.
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Location will depend on the individual lake and the amount of structure along with forage. By mid October, don’t look for weeds to hold many smallmouth, since they will relate to off shore humps and shoreline points. Humps are my first choice; smallmouth are easier to locate there since they don’t hold tight to the bottom like walleyes. Using your electronics look for smallmouth suspended off the edge of the hump. Large fall smallmouth will suspend off the hump at the same depth at which the hump tops out. These suspended smallmouth are always larger than the ones atop the structure.
  
Toss out a floating marker over the school and with your trolling motor move your boat to within casting distance. Start off with deep diving crankbaits like Yo-Zuri Crank’n Shad or a lipless crankbait like the Yo-Zuri Rattl’n Vibe. Due to the clear water, long casts are a must. The longer rod will allow for a longer cast without getting too close to the fish. When fishing crankbaits I use a Lamiglas Certified Pro XCF 705. A four inch grub rigged on a darter head jig is also deadly and will often catch the largest smallmouth.
Live bait presentations are also deadly on suspended fall smallmouth although few anglers give it a try. Many anglers will toss out a slip bobber with a chub on top the hump but few realize that same slip bobber rig is even more deadly on the suspended fish. When setting up the slip bobber and chub, it is important to set the chub so it rides above the school. Smallmouth will move up to hit the bait, but seldom move down to strike a bait.
Shoreline points are also productive and will receive less fishing pressure than off shore humps. Everyone will look at a map and fish a hump but few will search out small isolated points. Over the years I have found a few lakes in the U.P with huge smallmouth but have never taken anyone there and choose to fish them alone. On one of the lakes there is a small rock point that has produced huge smallmouth for me every year. The walleye and perch anglers on the lake have never figured out why I fish this point. As far as they know there are no smallmouth in the lake.
Smallmouth will also suspend off the point but most of the time they are located near the bottom. With your electronics, look for the transition area where the bottom changes from soft to hard bottom. This transition area will hold the largest smallmouth in the lake. Plastics will catch these bottom hugging smallmouth, but dead sticking a red tail chub is the best presentation.
If you are looking for a giant smallmouth this fall, do some exploring and try new lakes. Clear water lakes are fished only by walleye and musky anglers. It may take some time to find a good trophy lake, but it will be worth the effort.
The Fall Migration
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One of the most consistent patterns for big smallmouth that I have experienced is fall on the river. In fall, big smallmouth will stack up and can be easy to locate if the anglers know what to look for. When smallmouth begin the fall migration and you tap into this movement, you will catch fish until ice up. A good river angler can catch big smallmouth on a daily basis as they put on the feed before winter.
In summer smallmouth are scattered throughout the river system. Some remain in deepwater downstream sections of the river, some mid river sections while others will migrate to headwaters or below the next upstream dam on the river. As we move into fall, smallmouth leave the summer areas and migrate downstream to their deep water wintering areas.
I divide the fall migration into early fall, fall and late fall. They are three distinctly different periods and to catch smallmouth consistently you need to understand the difference. Water temperature, forage, and structure are all important, and if one element is missing so will the smallmouth. However, when you do put the pieces together, you will find lots of big smallmouth.
There is no set water temperature that triggers the early fall migration. Much will depend on the water temperature during the late summer. By late summer the days are shorter and the nights cooler, causing water temperature to drop. However, don’t look at the calendar, but pay attention to the water temperature. Smallmouth will remain in the summer pattern until there is a drop in the water temperature.
If we have a hot long summer, on northern rivers we can see water temperatures in the upper seventies, or on rare occasions in the low 80’s. I have also seen cold summers when the river never warms up past 69 degrees. In an average year most northern rivers will see water temperatures somewhere in the mid seventies. Regardless of the actual water temperature, look for a sudden drop of five or six degrees. This fast drop in water temperature sends shock waves throughout the entire ecosystem.
Weeds are first on my list during the early fall. Even though weeds can hold smallmouth in summer, the bite can be unpredictable. One day you find active smallmouth and the next day not a fish to be found. This unpredictable bite is due to the forage. In summer, food is plentiful and schools of baitfish will migrate as they feed on a variety of smaller baitfish, insect larva and plankton. Basically, smallmouth are just following the food chain.
One fall I filmed a segment for my television show with Bob and Ed Tomasino from the Chicago area. Bob and Ed had fished with me several times over the years and we caught some dandy fish. We caught a few scattered fish the first few hours, but nothing to get excited over. About mid-day we moved into a weed edge along the main river channel, just out of the main current flow. This area was producing nice smallmouth all summer, but early and late in the day. Although the action in summer was sporadic at best, with the drop in the water temperature the action was about the change.
I told Bob and Ed that we were fishing one of my favorite fall weedbeds. This weedbed is unique because mixed in with the weeds were stumps, downed wood and a few rocks. The weeds grow down to only five feet and the river channel dropped to 8 feet. As I carefully positioned the boat parallel to the weedline, I knew we were in business since baitfish seemed to be breaking water everywhere. With the smallmouth feeding on minnows, we rigged up four inch soft plastic jerkbaits, weedless with 3/0 wide gap hooks in white and silver fleck.
The smallmouth were cruising tight to the weedline so we fished it accordingly. Each time we made a cast tight to the weedline or into the weeds about one foot we connected with a smallmouth. If one of the casts fell a few feet short, we caught nothing. We hit a few slack periods but for the most part it seemed like we caught fish every few casts.
Besides the soft plastic jerkbaits we caught a few fish with topwater and crankbaits. The problem with the crankbait was that the smallmouth were to tight to the weeds. A cast tight to the weedline either caught some weeds or a fish. Unfortunately, most of the time we snagged some weeds. We tried making some casts out from the weedline only a few feet, but the smallmouth would not chase anything. A topwater bait enabled us to fish directly over the smallmouth but they were not in a topwater mood.
Next, I tried a couple of casts with a spinnerbait thinking that would be the ticket. I caught a few fish with a ¼ ounce chartreuse spinnerbait. Here again the fish I caught with the spinnerbait hit the bait immediately as it hit the water. They just would not follow anything away from the weeds. The best presentation was to cast the spinnerbait over the weeds and when it hit the weedline, let the spinnerbait drop along the edge. Again, this only worked on a few smallmouth.
Why was the soft plastic jerkbait so effective? Two reasons, the horizontal drop of the jerkbait and its resemblance to the shiners. If a smallmouth did not hit the jerkbait on the cast, the slow quivering drop of the jerkbait was just too much for these minnow eating smallmouth. We tried fishing the jerkbait “Wacky Style,” hooking a weedless hook through the center of the jerkbait. Usually this tactic is deadly for weedline smallmouth, but they refused this presentation.
Whenever we found stumps mixed in with the weeds we connected with big fish. The weeds also had several small fingers that protruded out and dropped into the river channel. These small weed fingers also produced some of the larger smallmouth. We had to keep our eyes open and make precise casts. Besides looking for the wood that was mixed with the weeds we were also looking for surfacing baitfish. A cast in a school of baitfish was almost a guaranteed smallmouth.
This spot was productive not only due to the weeds, wood cover and forage but its location. We were fishing where the main river entered the reservoir. As smallmouth began migrating downstream, this was a natural feeding area. With food and cover so available, smallmouth will remain in the area until they make their eventual move to deep water prior to ice up.
Late Summer Largemouth
Mid to late summer is not the most popular period for many bass anglers. However, whether you choose to fish for smallmouth or largemouth, it can be a time of plenty both for big fish and action. As usual, the key is concentrating on the proper water and using the proper presentations. While my clients catch many nice bass in August, if we were to fish a different lake only a few miles down the road, the fishing would be very tough.
For largemouth bass I have had my best success on medium sized natural lakes. These are the lakes that are hot in spring but not given a second though in August. The ideal lake will be less than 300 acres and have limited structure with distinct weedlines. It is also important to choose a lake with limited weed growth and avoid those shallow weed chocked lakes. In the Northwoods, many of these lakes will have limited walleye populations, but largemouth bass populations can be very high with a good ratio of big fish present. Due to the limited structure, bass are easy to locate and you can quickly get on fish.
The time of day you fish the lake is important, with early morning being prime. Since we are dealing with lakes with limited weed growth finding the restaurant is not a problem. During the low light conditions bass will move into the sparse weeds to feed but move back along the weedline and into deeper water as the sun rises. While they can be caught later in the day you will need to use different presentations.
As the sun rises it is hard to beat a spinnerbait or soft plastic jerk bait since bass are feeding on some type of baitfish. I use both and usually catch bass on both. If you are fishing with a partner then each of you should use different bait. When fishing spinnerbaits I like a 6’ 6” or 7’ casting rod with a soft action. Call me old fashioned, but I prefer a fiberglass rod when using spinnerbaits. The fiberglass rod acts as a shock absorber and will land more marginally hooked bass than a fast-reacting stiffer rod. However, when using jerkbaits, I prefer a stiffer rod with more sensitivity.
When fishing early morning weeds, minnow type jerk baits are preferred. They should be fished without any weight since you want the bait to ride over the weeds. Regardless of the water clarity, sunny or overcast, I use minnow imitation colors. White and silver fleck are the top colors. Since bass are feeding on minnows in shallow water, you need to match the hatch as much as possible. Work the jerk bait with a series of fast short twitches. You want to get the attention of the bass and let the bass engulf the bait on the pause.
Topwater action can also be explosive at the wee hours of the morning. If you are targeting big bass it is tough to beat a surface bait. Many northern bass anglers fail to use this deadly bait. While it may not work at high noon, it will put huge northern largemouth in the boat during the wee hours of the day.
If overcast conditions prevail, you can expect largemouth to be active in the shallow weeds throughout the day. Once the sun is high, look for bass to relocate along the weedline. When fishing the weedline you will need to change to finesse presentations. Start off fishing the upper edge of the weeds with a soft plastic jerkbait. Let the jerkbait slowly drop four to five feet then give it a few light twitches. If no strike is felt, continue to let the bait drop and repeat the slow twitches. This takes patience but will catch big bass.
If the lake you are fishing has deep weedlines you will need to fish them accordingly. A few lakes I fish have weedlines as deep as 18 feet. To effectively fish these weedlines you will need to fish both parallel to the weeds and vertically. When fishing parallel to the weeds, my favorite presentation is Carolina rigs. I work my Carolina Rigs with either lizards or four inch soft plastic jerk baits.
Small patches of sand grass which can be picked up with your locator can be sleeper areas for big largemouth. These small patches are usually well out from the weedline avoiding most bass fisherman. I ran into this scenario years ago when drifting slip sinker rigs for walleye. We marked fish in the grass but to our surprise they were big largemouth. Needless to say I have been fishing this pattern for largemouth and smallmouth bass ever since. Carolina rigs and drop shot presentations have proven most effective for catching these grass related bass. Largemouth will also attack tubes fished over the grass. These small patches of sand grass have been my little secret for years and they can be found in just about every clear water natural lake in the Northwoods.
A good evening bite also occurs in the shallow weeds. The evening bite may at times be more intense, but it will be for a short period of time. On lakes with heavy boat traffic during the day the evening bite is excellent. You can work a weedline in the early evening and have little success, but right at dusk the action can be incredible. The same presentations that worked in the morning are productive at dusk. However, if muskies are present they tend to dominate the weedline before dusk. If you are looking for walleye they will move into these same weeds after dark.
These are just a few options open to bassers in the Northwoods. With most of the action and boat traffic on the larger lakes, besides catching fish you will also get a bit of quiet and relaxation.
Summer on the River
The summer period is a time of plenty for many smallmouth fishermen but it can also be the “Dog Days of Summer” for others. For me personally it is one of the most consistent periods in which to catch fish. It may not be trophy time but the action is hot. As usual where we fish is the deciding factor. If you want to catch fish in late summer you will need to avoid not just other anglers, but recreational boaters as well.
Fishing a river in summer will give an angler variety. Smallmouth bass, walleye, northern pike and perch are all active during the late summer period. Although many species may be active it is the smallmouth fishing that takes center stage. My favorite river seems like it gets better with each year. In August of 2006 we had several days where we boated over 50 smallmouth. Besides the numbers, big fish were also common. This is one place where you can expect to encounter 18 to 21 inch smallmouth each day during even during the warmest summer.
While the numbers of smallmouth in a river may be high, anglers still need to concentrate on location. If you are targeting both numbers and big fish you will need to fish specific areas in the river. River conditions will dictate smallmouth location as opposed to weather. The amount of current flowing through the river will play an important role in determining where you choose to fish. One stretch of river can be hot, and cool down as the conditions change.
Under normal low water summer conditions, most smallmouth action will occur right in the middle of the river. Anglers who target the shorelines will catch smallmouth but in lesser numbers. While fishing the mid river areas, we will watch shoreline anglers drifting along the shoreline, not aware what they are missing. The mid river rocks are home to millions of crayfish which are the preferred forage of smallmouth.
To locate active smallmouth I will use my electric trolling motor to control the location of my boat as well as the speed of the drift. One angler will cast a crankbait and the other will use a soft plastic jerkbait. By using these two presentations you will be able to catch both the active smallmouth and the neutral fish. Even if you catch a few fish on one presentation continue to use both until you find a definite pattern.
The bonus when using two different presentations is you can catch twice as many fish. One fish may hit a crankbait while another will hit the jerkbait. Many times a smallmouth will refuse one presentation only to hit another. So keep an open mind and try to be versatile.
Crankbaits are the most effective bait when searching for active smallmouth. With crayfish being the preferred forage, crayfish imitation baits are my first choice. Not that minnow imitation crankbaits won’t work, they usually don’t have the desirable action or color patterns. The more contrast in the color pattern the more effective the crankbait will be. It is the contrast in the color pattern and not the actual color of the crankbait that is most important.
Soft plastic jerkbaits will catch active smallmouth but they will catch the neutral fish as well. I use both senko and minnow style jerkbaits rigged weedless with a 3/0 wide gap hook. My choice will depend on the current, water depth and cover. On some days you will need to refine your presentation while on others it does not seem to matter. However, there are a few guide lines to follow.
River smallmouth will relate heavily to mid river grass in northern rivers. This grass offers both cover for bait fish and minnows, but also smallmouth. Fishing mid river grass is one of the most predictable summer river patterns. While fishing this grass with jerkbaits is not difficult you must use the proper presentation. The jerk bait has to drift over the tops of the weeds for it to be effective. If it falls into the weeds the bait will get snagged. As you retrieve the bait you will end up with a ball of grass on the jerkbait. That is why the minnow type baits are more effective in this situation. Rig the jerk bait weedless and weightless. This should allow the jerkbait to drift over the weeds, and as it does, give it an occasional twitch. If the current is too swift, and the jerkbait moves to fast, use a weighted wide gap hook.
When drifting a jerkbait, watch your line. A smallmouth will suck in the bait and usually come towards the boat. Any slack in the line will usually mean a fish. When you detect a strike, reel up the slack before setting the hook. On occasion a smallmouth will break water as it hits the jerkbait, but most of the time you will just notice a boil. Most of the time when the fish breaks water the angler looses the fish. This is either from a bad hookset or setting the hook to soon. So watch the water and line.
While being alert is important, often being asleep at the switch can work to an angler’s advantage. Many anglers have trouble waiting a few seconds before setting a hook. Case in point were two elderly clients who occasionally book a few guide trips. We were on a good jerkbait bite one time and the man caught a few fish, but the woman was catching fish literally one after another. It was an interesting day as they discussed who the better angler was. Of course being the guide I had to remain neutral.
Fishing under overcast skies with no wind the water was as calm as glass. Slowly drifting over mid river grass, we could see smallmouth rising and feeding on minnows. Now this could have been an ideal topwater bite, but with elderly people I knew that soft plastic jerkbaits would be the ticket. They are virtually snagless and there is room for error.
Each time we saw a boil or ripple they would toss a jerkbait in the vicinity. A smallmouth would rise and engulf the bait and the guy, seeing the boil would set the hook and miss the fish. I kept telling him to wait until the smallmouth had the bait but he could not condition himself to do this.
His wife on the other hand would toss out the jerkbait and literally do nothing. The smallmouth would hammer the bait and hook itself. So each time a fish hit her bait she would connect. Now the guy was happy his wife was catching all these fish, but he was still getting frustrated. Finally I told him to toss out the bait, and close his eyes. This would ensure that he would not set the hook too early. While he did not do this, he finally got the point. So be careful not to set the hook too early.
If weeds are limited in mid-river rocks and the depth is 4 to 6 feet, I will rely on senko type jerkbaits. These baits, being impregnated with salt, are heavier and will sink and ride over the grass. Experiment with different weights on the hook until you can work the jerkbait at the desired depth. Again, watch the line and don’t set the hook too early. Top jerkbaits colors include: white, minnow flash, and pearl silver, with four inch baits being my favorite.
Jerkbaits are best fished with a bait caster spooled with braided line. The braided line has no stretch and you will not have any line twist to wary about. However, many anglers including myself like to fish jerkbaits with a spinning rod, especially with four inch baits. If you use monofilament line eventually you will develop line twist. While some anglers will spool there spinning rod with braided line this past season I had great success using Yo-Zuri Ultra Soft. This fluorocarbon/nylon blend eliminates most of the line twist and had virtually no stretch. If you prefer to use monofilament line, expect to do lots of respooling.
Another problem that arises is the angler’s choice in rods. As I keep mentioning most smallmouth anglers use too light a rod. Yes, it makes for a good fight but a wimpy rod will not allow for a good hookset with a jerkbait. Combine trying to bury a 3/0 wide gap hook into a five pound smallmouth with current, and you have a problem. The ideal rod is a six foot six or seven foot medium action rod. Since we are using primarily four inch baits a stiffer rod is not needed. My choice in rods is either a Lamiglas EXS 703 or an EXC 703.
TOPWATER SMALLMOUTH
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I have yet to meet an angler who does not like to catch smallmouth bass on topwater. Not only is experiencing an 18 inch smallmouth crushing a topwater bait exciting, but it is also addicting. After catching a few fish on top, many of my clients continue to fish the topwater bait, even if no other smallmouth shows any interest. The problem is that many anglers fail to put together all the pieces of the puzzle and likewise have only limited topwater success.
From June through early September, I can usually be found on the Menominee River, in pursuit of big smallmouth with my favorite topwater bait. Summer fishing on inland lakes and reservoirs can be unpredictable, although I do occasionally get into a good topwater bite. Early and late in the day smallmouth will move into the weeds and atop structure to feed. However, the river is the place to be in summer. My favorite river in particular is chucked full of smallmouth and 18 inch fish are common. Combine summer and a quality smallmouth fishery and you can't loose.
While the topwater bite on the river is always excellent, on some years it is better than others. This past summer was one of the best years for topwater fishing I have ever experienced. We were locked into a consistently hot summer weather pattern and by August the action was fantastic. Smallmouth were on the feed and they were very predictable. In fact, I had the topwater bite patterned as to the times it would start and end. Some of my clients were amazed at not only the topwater bite but how accurate my predictions were.
On occasion you get those memorable days when the topwater bite is awesome, and you can't seem to do anything wrong. One such day was last August when I got together with my friend Jim Saydak from Hammond, Indiana. I spoke with Jim the night before and told him the smallmouth fishing was great, so he was all pumped by the time we met at the boat landing the next morning.
We probably caught 15 smallmouth in the 18 to 20 inch class.
We met about 8:30 and I started fishing with a Yo-Zuri Hardcore crankbait and suggested Jim use a white four inch soft plastic jerkbait. I explained to Jim that he should due to the limited current, the fish would be holding a bit deeper and that he should rig the jerkbait wacky style. We caught an occasional smallmouth but nothing we could pattern. I told Jim that the fishing was only going to get better as the day progressed.
About 10:00 I moved to a small weedbed and tied on a Yo-Zuri ZZ-Pop and told Jim things were going to happen. The ZZ-Pop creates a loud gurgling, spitting, splashing, and popping noises with every twitch. On the second cast an 18 inch smallmouth smashed the bait and it was soon airborne and the battle began. After I released the smallmouth, Jim asked if I had another one of those baits. He tied on and after I gave him a short course on how to work it, he soon caught a nice smallmouth.
For the next few hours we caught what seemed like a smallmouth on every second or third cast. Smallmouth began breaking the surface and feeding on small gray minnows. The small gray minnows were feeding on small bugs. Smallmouth are on the top of the food chain and were taking advantage of the situation. The action was so good that Jim and I would wait for a smallmouth to rise, and cast the topwater lure right at the ripple. This was an easy target, and if we got within a few inches we usually connected with the smallmouth. I told Jim that this was an almost daily feeding pattern.
About 2:00 the topwater action came to an abrupt halt. We caught a few more big smallmouth with soft plastic jerkbaits but nothing on top. On the way back to the boat landing, Jim said he fished topwater baits for smallmouth before but he had never caught so many smallmouth, not to mention the average size. We probably caught 15 smallmouth in the 18 to 20 inch class. What an incredible day in anyone's book.
On the river I use a variety of topwater baits but do have my favorites. The ZZ-Pop as I mentioned earlier is an excellent choice, but the Yo-Zuri 3-D Popper is a close second. A pair of internal steel balls emit strike-provoking clicks and rattles at the slightest movement and also maximize casting distance. Top colors for both baits include Gold/black and Tennessee Shad. Both these color patterns have an orange belly. I have had great success with 20 inch plus smallmouth with the Yo-Zurri Live Bait ZZ Walker. This soft bodied bait has an action similar to a Zara Spook. However, the soft body and ultra sharp hooks result in a much higher hook up ratio than the spook.
I use both casting and spinning tackle and for the most part is a personal preference. When using a spinning rod choose a medium action rod like a the Lamiglas XMG 50 series EXS 663. For a casting rod I prefer an EXC 722 or an XC 734 Topwater Special. I spool my spinning reel with Yo-Zuri Hybrid Ultra Soft which is a fluorocarbon/nylon blend designed especially for spinning reels. On my casting reel I use Yo-Zuri Hardcore X-Tex Cobra in 12 pound test or 20 pound Cortland Master Braid.
Post Spawn Smallmouth
The post-spawn period can be a dreaded time for bass anglers. After fast and furious pre-spawn action, everything suddenly slows down. Smallmouth bass can be tough to pattern and catch consistently. While post-spawn is far from an easy time to catch bass, is not nearly as difficult as anglers have been lead to believe. While just about any angler, pro and novice alike, can catch pre-spawn fish, you’ll need to refine your skills to deal with the post-spawn bite.
Last June, while filming a segment of my television show, I was anticipating great fishing. The weather was stable and for the two previous days, while I had been guiding, the fishing was great. Smallmouth were shallow and feeding on crayfish. However, on shooting day, I quickly discovered crayfish weren’t in the shallows, and neither were many smallmouth! Those in the shallows were very lethargic and the bite was tough. After downsizing and slowing presentation, I managed to salvage the day. What caused the change is anyone’s guess, since the weather pattern remained stable.
Finding the Right Spot
Taking water temperature into account is the first key to catching post-spawn smallmouth. The perfect scenario for all lakes is to experience a week of warming weather after spawning. However, late spring and early summer is not a time of consistent weather. If water temperatures are on the rise, smallmouth will be aggressive and cooperate. In dark stained water, under stable weather conditions, post-spawn smallmouth will remain in the shallows and feed on crayfish. They will move tight to the shoreline and are very aggressive.
However, if temperatures drop after spawning, fishing can be very tough. So first, look for the warmest water! Hit by a cold front and a drop in temperatures, smallmouth will hold tight to cover along the first breakline where spawning occurred. On a deep clear lake, this can be as deep as 20 feet, while on a shallow stained water reservoir, this can be as shallow as 8 foot. So if hit with a severe weather change, the shallower and darker the water, the more apt you are to catch smallmouth.
As I mentioned earlier, on clear water natural lakes, post-spawn smallmouth will hold tight to cover on the breakline. This cover can be a rock point, downed wood or scattered boulders. Don’t search for expansive areas since the largest smallmouth tend to seek out small pockets of isolated cover. Over the years, a mix of wood and rock has always produced big smallmouth for me.
Even with the best electronics on the market, you won’t be able to actually see fish relating to the deep cover. This is due to the fact that smallmouth are holding so tight. However, most electronics will make hard bottom and wood cover. So search for this type of cover along the breakline near spawning areas.
Once you locate an area, either hold over the structure with you electric trolling motor, or anchor. Often anchoring is better since it will enable the angler to fish as directly as possible. You will need to fish as slow as possible. If you are off the structure a few feet, you won’t catch fish.
Choosing the Right Bait
A well placed crankbait can be deadly on post spawn smallmouth. My first choice would be a Yo-Zuri shallow diving Hardcore Crankbait. The Hardcore Crankbait Series from Yo-Zuri features the patented Tungsten Magnetic Transfer System. This feature improves casting distance and accuracy by placing the weight of the lure in the tail for long, accurate casts. Upon retrieval, the weights shift to the center of the lure, providing a well balanced swimming action. The super-shallow model (F706) creates a wide wake when fished slowly over cover. Squared lip design reduces hook fowling and hang ups.
Grubs and tubes will also take post spawn smallmouth, but most anglers make the mistake of fishing them too fast. Remember that the smallmouth usually won’t follow the bait and you may need to trigger the bass to strike. This is where finesse worms are often the answer. These slender 4” worms have no action and when rigged wacky style with minimal weight have a slow fall that will trigger the most neutral bass. Another option is to rig a leech on a light jighead.
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Selecting the Right Equipment
When fishing in both clear and dark water, go as light as possible. A medium-light action spinning rod like a Lamiglas XMG 50 Series; EXS 661, EXS 702 or a EXS 703 works well for plastics. When fishing crankbaits I prefer an EXC 703. Avoid shorter six foot rods since they will limit your casting distance. In stained water use six or eight pound test line but in clear water never go heavier than six pound test. When using a spinning rod I have had excellent success with Yo-Zuri Hybrid Ultra Soft in 6 and 8 pound test. Ultra Soft is a blend of nylon and fluorocarbon but it is specifically made for spinning tackle because of it’s low memory.
Early Season Musky
When picking water to fish during the early musky season, shallow stained water flowages top the list. The more shallow water available in the flowage, the more active muskies will be. Try to avoid flowages where most of the water is deeper than twenty feet. Deeper flowages will have a greater amount of water passing through and take longer too warm. The size of the flowage is important, since a smaller flowage will also warm quicker. The smaller the flowage, the more active muskies will be once the season opens. Besides numbers of muskies, often these flowages can produce a few big fish in the early season.
 
One example of a prime early season flowage, is Caldron Falls in central Marinette County. This 1200-acre flowage has plenty of shallow muck bays filled with wood, fresh cabbage weed and feeding muskies. Muskies will spawn in these bays and remain there as long as forage is present. While musky fishing can be challenging on Caldron Falls, if you put in your time you can connect with quality muskies. Over the years, I have developed a few patterns that have produced consistent catches of muskies.
Shallow muck filled bays loaded with wood are prime areas to fish on the season opener. The combination of muck and wood warms quickly. With the warmer water temperature, even large females can recover quickly after spawning. Large trophy muskies will relate to extremely shallow water under these conditions. Not only will they move into the area to feed, but also they can remain there for long periods. Both downed wood and stumps can be equally productive. Look for wood next to an inlet entering a bay to be a prime feeding area. Largemouth bass, pike, and panfish will relate heavily an inlet. With muskies being at the top of the food chain, they won't be far behind.
When fishing wood, it is important to be mobile, and concentrate only on active fish. Use caution when moving into the shallows, being careful not to spook a large musky. Both bucktails and shallow running crankbaits are effective at this time. If you are fishing with a partner, then you should use both presentations. When choosing a bucktail, use a smaller blade and a slightly neutral color dressing. Although the water may be stained, there is good visibility in the early season. Rust color, black\chartreuse or black\orange are top colors. Leave the bright fluorescent colors for mid summer. Small bucktails with rubber bodies are also deadly in spring.
If stable weather patterns are the rule, use a faster steady retrieve with the bucktail. After the passing of a cold front, use a slower retrieve on the bucktail. Although most strikes will occur, the first few feet of you retrieve, it is important to make a figure 8 back to the boat.
Often twitching shallow running crankbaits will be more productive than bucktails. With the primary forage being either small baitfish or crappie, these baits can be very effective. Smaller six-inch baits, like the Crane Bait, are more desirable since they most resemble the forage. Try to pitch the bait as tight to any wood cover as possible. Often a musky will strike the bait as it hits the water so be prepared. Slowly work the bait back to the boat with short twitches, keeping the bait from breaking water. As with a bucktail make a figure 8 since strikes will occur at boatside. Try to match your bait to the preferred forage. Again, the water visibility is good so there is no need for bright colors. Natural color patterns like black\white would be my first choice.
The type of rod and equipment you use will make your presentation more effective. When twitching a shallow running crankbait I prefer a 6'6'' rod like a Lamiglas GSW 66 MHC-T. When fishing bucktails I prefer a 7-foot rod like a Lamiglas GSW 7 MHC-T. For twitch baits I rig my reel with Cortland Musky Mono and on my bucktail rod I like Cortland Musky Master in 27 or 36 pound test.
Besides wood, prime areas will also sprout fresh weedgrowth. Some flowages will have an abundance of weeds while others will see only limited weedgrowth. Fresh weeds will hold the most active muskies. Even if the weedgrowth is limited expect to find a few active muskies in the vicinity. In June, weedgrowth can spring up over night so look for fresh weeds each day you head out on the water.
If you are looking for large muskies you need to use a slow presentation. Big spawned out females will hold in the weeds but will not chase a fast moving bait. Over the years my good friend Robert Tomes has boated big muskies with a fly rod while we were fishing a few of my favorite waters. This slow finesse presentation will trigger a strike from a sluggish post spawn musky, which would not chase a bucktail or twitch bait. Perch and crappie pattern flies are good bets in stained water. Robert has a new book out that covers fly fishing for muskies.
Plastics can also be twitched over fresh cabbage and will produce a big muskie when all else seems to fail. I discovered this pattern years back when fishing on caldron falls with a client from Indiana. The conditions were ideal and we found muskies in all the fresh cabbage we fished, but the problem was we could not get one to hit a bait. We threw twitch baits, bucktails and jerkbaits in every size and color. As a last ditch effort, I took one of my bass rods out of my rod locker that was rigged with a five inch soft plastic jerkbait. After a few minutes I connected with a 38 incher.
When working bass sized plastics for musky you need to refine your equipment and presentation. Most musky rods are to stiff and I prefer to use a heavy action bass rod. Spool your casting reel with Cortland Master Braid in 20-40 pound test, and tie on a Ball Bearing Swivel. For a leader I tie on about two feet of seven strand wire in 30 to 50 pound test to the swivel and then tie on a 6/0 or 7/0 wide gap hook directly to the leader. The lighter line and light leader will allow the jerkbait to have a slow natural action. If the bait falls too quickly and is too ridged, you will decrease your odds of a strike. Some anglers may think this rig is too light for musky, but I have not lost a fish with this rig. I have also rigged a six inch sucker on the same rig with satisfactory results.
On many occasions musky activity will peak during the late afternoon and early evening. However, don’t get the idea that all you have to do is be on the water late in the day. On some days the best action can occur at High Noon and on other days they will be active sporadically throughout the day. You may have a follow or see a musky cruising the cabbage, and return to the spot late in the afternoon and catch the fish. Returning to a fish has resulted in many a big musky.
Seldom have I found peak feeding occurring early in the day, unless we are in a warming trend and the water temperature warms rapidly. Later in summer being on the water at sunup may be the only way to boat a musky. Night fishing is also not as productive as it is later in the season. This is one time of year when you will actually benefit from rising late in the day.
Musky will also be most active after warming weather patterns. Stable weather patterns will not only raise the water temperature but the water won’t cool down over night. Cool nights will cause the water temperature to drop and slow down the musky action. If you are fishing after a front look for the best action to occur late in the afternoon.
The early season can be a time of plenty for all species of fish and muskies are no exception. While there is never a sure thing, you can increase your odds. While you may not get that 50 incher, you should encounter plenty of consistent musky action. Do some hunting and check out new water.
April on the Menominee River
Now is the Time!
The entire Menominee Rivers offers excellent opportunities for walleye anglers. On the river there is a one fish bag limit until the first Saturday in May when the regular fishing season opens. Even with this one fish bag limit it is still worth your time spending a day on the river. March and April are prime time to catch big pre-spawn walleye and action with smaller males. If you need to take home a fish, you can take one home as long as it is over the 15-inch mark. Many anglers choose to fish in Marinette-Menominee where the Menominee Rivers enters the bay of Green Bay. While there is an excellent fishery present and big fish are caught on a daily basis, I prefer to fish the upper river. The lower Menominee River is an urban environment and while catching fish, you encounter noise, boat traffic and other congestion. Sure, you can choose to troll the big water out in the bay, but you won't experience the Northwoods or solitude, especially when you troll in a pack of boats.
I choose solitude. Sure you may catch less fish, but when fishing, enjoying your surroundings is more important than the number of fish you put in the boat. In early spring I choose to fish walleyes below one of the many dams on the upper river. As I mentioned earlier there are big fish present below these dams in the spring and few anglers take advantage of this fishery. Over the years I have caught my share of 8-10 pound walleyes.
Walleyes will start to move below the dams in late fall and early winter. By early March, water levels are low and current is minimal below most of the dams. With days becoming longer and warmer, fishing can be good by mid-March. Several years back, I managed to catch several nice walleye fishing from shore below a few of the dams even though the weather did not cooperate. I had to choose my days since we did have a few heavy snowfalls during this period.
It looked like I had things under control until the bottom dropped. We experienced a warming trend and temperatures approaching 70 degrees. The fish were biting and even getting ready to spawn. However, with the warm temperatures and frost still in the ground the snow melt had no place to run, but in the river and did the river rise. I have lived in this area for 25 years and have never seen the river this high. The feed back I received form others is that the river was probably at its highest point since the dams were built.
Shore fishing is overlooked by many anglers in the early spring. In fact, in the cold water of spring, a shore angler will often out fish the angler in a boat. Once the water levels began to rise, fishing from shore is the only safe way to fish. However, with the high water, I experienced conditions I never faced before. By adapting to these conditions I was able to catch fish and learn as well.
Keep in mind that the walleye had already come close to spawning and were in a positive mood prior to the high water. Once the water began to rise they did not head back to deep holes in the river, but instead moved tight to the shorelines avoiding the current hoping to complete spawning. As the walleye moved to shallow water, they became fair game for the shore anglers. The bulk of the fish were stacked up in the first slack water areas downstream from the dams. These areas would have been impossible to fish let alone navigate to with the high water.
Although it was a good hike to where I located the walleyes minimal tackle was needed. My tackle box consisted of an assortment of jigs ranging in size for 1/8 ounce to 3/8 ounce, some Aberdeen hooks and split shot and a few three-inch twister tails. I did have to bring along a small minnow bucket and some fatheads and golden shiners. In the spring I rely on both types of minnows. As far as a rod goes when shore fishing I like a seven foot medium action rod to maximize my casting. My favorite is either a Lamiglas XMG 50 EXS 703 or a XPS 703. I spool my reels with 8 pound Yo-Zuri Hybrid Ultra Soft.
Under a normal year, the best time to try shore angling for walleye is from early March through late April. Once walleye have completes spawning, they will move and you will fare much better by fishing from a boat. By mid April, almost all of my fishing on the river is from my boat but on occasion I will still cast a few jigs from shore.
Cold Water Big Smallmouth
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Over my 25 years of guiding, I have kept records of every day spent on the water. These records include the number and size of the fish caught, as well as the time of year and conditions. Having logged thousands of big smallmouth, one outstanding feature is noticeable. About seventy-five percent of the big smallmouth were caught in cold water.
By cold water, I am referring to water temperatures less than 60 degrees. This takes in the pre-spawn period in the spring and the fall pattern. The key to catching big smallmouth consistently is understanding where and how these big fish move in cold water. Once you understand seasonal movements and how to use the right presentation, you should be able to catch big smallmouth on your favorite water.
The first places I search for large smallmouth in the spring is stained water reservoirs. Stained water reservoirs warm rapidly and are the first places to see pre-spawn smallmouth. When choosing a spring reservoir, the smaller the better. A small reservoir will warm faster and will hold active smallmouth. One of my favorite early spring reservoirs is less than 1,000 acres, and we take five-pound smallmouth on a daily basis. As spring progresses and water continues to warm, start fishing larger reservoirs.
Regardless of the size of the reservoir, smallmouth will use the same pattern. Pre-spawn smallmouth will search out the warmest water close to spawning areas. So find a rock/rubble or gravel area, close to a shallow muck bottom bay, and you should find big pre-spawn smallmouth. The largest smallmouth in the reservoir will hold tight to transition areas from hard to soft bottom. It took me years to figure out why big smallmouth held in certain areas, until I realized one day that they were all transition areas.
While pre-spawn smallmouth will hit a variety of presentations, it is tough to beat soft plastics. When fishing the back bays and wood, my best success has come with soft plastic jerkbait rigged with a 3/0 wide gap Sickle Hook. Cast the jerkbait tight to the wood and let it fall. If a smallmouth is present, it will usually inhale the bait. If you don’t get a strike, give the jerkbait a slight twitch and again let it fall. Continue this presentation back to the boat. Tubes are also deadly and will catch big smallmouth under any conditions. Rig the tube weedless with a wide gap hook and a small bullet sinker. If the bite is light rig up a three inch grub on a light darter head jig.
When fishing plastics in cold water, I prefer a rod with a fast tip. The fast tip enables me to detect even the slightest pick up. However, if your rod is to light, you won’t get a good hookset. So besides having a fast tip, the rod should have plenty of power. My preferred rod is a seven foot Lamiglas HMG series, EXS 703 or an EXS 661. Every aspect of the HMG series has been optimized to provide unrivaled sensitivity, unbridles strength, and uncompromising performance. The graphite handle and the blanks are a marvel of technology. You’ll feel everything that’s happening at the end of your line, respond faster, and fish harder with less fatigue.
Use a medium action spinning reel spooled with Yo-Zuri six or eight pound test Ultra Soft. Ultra Soft is a blend of Fluorocarbon and nylon designed specifically for spinning reels. With less memory and stretch than monofilament line, it is trouble free and a pleasure to fish with.
A few weeks later smallmouth begin to go on the prowl on clear water natural lakes. If the lake has a shallow bay close to spawning areas it should be the first area to fish. The secret to catching big smallmouth is looking for a shallow bay with deep water access. Look for big smallmouth to hold on the edge of the bay off a deep point. Even a tiny point can hold a big smallmouth.
Crankbaits would be my first choice when searching for big smallmouth. A crankbait will allow you to cover water and they will also catch big fish. Stick with a minnow- imitation crankbait like a Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow. Start fishing deeper water with deep diving crankbaits and gradually move into shallow water with shallow running crankbaits. By starting in deep water, you will be able to catch both deep and shallow fish. If you start fishing shallow and then move deep, you will already have spooked the smallmouth holding in deep water.
  
Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow Yo-Zuri Jerko
If you connect with a big smallmouth while casting deep water, switch to a suspending jerkbait. Often the larger smallmouth will suspend off the bottom and will rise to hit the jerkbait. When fishing a suspending jerkbait it is important to run the bait at different depths even if you are catching fish at one specific depth. It is common for big smallmouth to be scattered during the pre-spawn period, so it is important to cover all water depths. The Yo-Zuri 3D Minnow is the best suspending jerkbait I have ever fished with. This season I can’t wait to use the new Yo-Zuri Jerk-O. This rattling jerkbait has a sloped face that causes the bait to dart back and forth erratically and suspend in place, which will drive big smallmouth wild.
 
Yo-Zuri 3D Minnow Tube
Once you locate smallmouth, switch over to soft plastic jerkbaits and tubes. For colors, I prefer watermelon, green pumpkin, watermelon red and crawdad. If fishing open water use a darter head jig but around cover rig the tube weedless with a wide gap hook.
I always keep an open mind when fishing, but never is it more important during the pre-spawn. Water temperatures can change overnight and play havoc with fish, like the spring of 2006, when I fished my favorite reservoir with my good friend Mark Whitt from Sylvan/Smokercraft boats. It was early in the season and we were experiencing above normal temperatures. As we hit the water the conditions were perfect, light southwest winds, clear skies and water temperatures in the low sixties. I told Mark that I had never seen water temperature this warm so early in the season. Sometimes if the water warms to quickly, pre-spawn smallmouth can be confused.
Confused they were, since we fished several shoreline points and rocky shorelines, with only a few small male fish to show for our efforts. Next, I moved to a small rock which rises in the middle of a shallow bay. This was a spot where I catch lots of 12-15 inch smallmouth early in the season. I had given up on catching big smallmouth and would concentrate on numbers.
We were fishing with soft plastic jerkbaits rigged with 3/0 wide gap Sickle Hooks, when Mark inquired about using a tube. Mark had become addicted to tubes last fall while we were fishing on Portage Lake, in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. He rigged up a crayfish color tube and cast towards the rock, instantly he reeled in a chunky 19 inch smallmouth. We continued to catch several smallmouth on tubes and all of them were loaded with crayfish.
What was happening was the water had warmed up so quickly, that crayfish were all over this shallow rock looking for a meal. Smallmouth were so focused on crayfish, that they would only hit a tube crawled along the bottom. The water temperature by this time was 65 degrees, but smallmouth had put spawning on the back burner. Interestingly, we fished other similar rocky structure and could not catch a fish. These are just things that happen.
For giant smallmouth it is tough to beat the fall period. Typically in fall we boat at least on 5 pound smallmouth each day. Besides the smallmouth running big in fall, they are numerous. During the fall period, it is common to see as many as 10 big smallmouth schooled up in one small area. A few years back we boated 22 smallmouth between 19 and 21 inches.
In early fall, smallmouth start to migrate downstream on most rivers in the upper Midwest. As they move downstream, they will hold on the edge of sloughs and backwaters. If stumps are common in the slough or backwater, these can be big fish magnets. This shallow water fishery is passed up by many smallmouth anglers.
When the water is warm, there is no need for finesse presentations. Start out casting a spinnerbait or shallow-running crankbait along the weed edge and around the wood. If big smallmouths are present, you will know in a hurry. After you catch all the active bass, switch over to a tube, grub or jig and minnow. By late fall, smallmouth will stack up out of the current on the edge of sloughs. The big fish will hit plastics and large red tailed chubs until the water temperature drops below 40 degrees.
As the water continues to cool, smallmouth will stack up out of the current on the edge of the sloughs. A Yo-Zuri hardcore Crankbait would be ideal for picking off the active smallmouth. My favorite is the F 718 medium diver, with my favorite colors being painted shad, orange tiger and hot tiger.
On natural lakes the largest smallmouth will suspend off structure or hold tight steep breaklines. These fish are catchable, but you will need to position the boat directly over the fish. Start with a deep diving crankbait like a Yo-Zuri Hardcore Shad to locate active smallmouth. Next, cast a tube or four inch grub. If smallmouth are holding in deep water, drift with a Carolina rig with a finesse worm. For the largest smallmouth in the lake, you might need to drift with a slip sinker rig ands a red tail chub.
If you are after big smallmouth, you can catch them in cold water. Concentrate your fishing to cold water periods and your odds will be increased. You may be dealing with less than ideal conditions, but nobody ever said catching big fish was easy.
Bass Rods:  XMG 50
Bass fishing has evolved. Not only on the national scene, but at the club and local level also. There are local tournaments available in which the purses are equal to a comfortable annual income. Making a living at bass fishing is more of a reality now than at any other time. For the last three years, our development team has focused on producing this series of rods specifically for those with the most serious approach to the sport. Every aspect of the XMG 50 series has been optimized to provide unrivaled sensitivity and unbridled strength, in a rod you can literally fish for days on end. In a field where you can financially measure the cost of a missed fish, the XMG 50 series does not represent a rod but an investment.
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So far this season most of my smallmouth and walleye fishing has been with the new XMG 50 series rods from Lamiglas. Having used cork handle rods most of my life I must admit I was a bit hesitant at first. Relying on finesse presentations, I found the graphite handles to be more sensitive making the ultimate connection between the lure, line, rod and hand. The new titanium guide frames with Nanolite rings are great and virtually eliminate any line wear.
Being on the water on a daily basis I also appreciate how light these rods are. The HMG 50 rods are not only a pleasure to fish with but can be relied on to give you a great hookset. Don’t let the light feel of the rod deceive you, they are exceptionally strong.
This spring, when we were hit with extreme weather conditions and falling water temperatures, I know that the Lamiglas XMG rods put more fish in my boat.
EXS 721 jigging for walleye and light finesse bass presentations
EXS 702 tubes, grubs, small soft plastic jerkbaits
EXS 703 soft plastic jerkbaits, tubes, small crankbaits
Fish Rocks in November
One thing is for certain when November arrives fisherman will find no lines at the boat landing. You will be able to head out to your favorite lake and probably have the water to yourself. November can be trophy time for a variety of species but it can also be one of the most frustrating and unpredictable times in which to fish. The late fall period is one time of year when fishing the proper lake is a must. Lakes that are tough in summer and early fall can be hot before ice up.
I have had my greatest success on clear lakes under stable weather patterns or just before a front
First off we must determine which lakes are going to be the most productive. Clear water is a must for consistent fishing. The clearer and more infertile the water the greater your odds will be to land a trophy fish. Many clear lakes will have trophy class fish, but there numbers can be low. These clear lakes have a depleted forage base and large predator fish are on the prowl. Darker and moderately fertile lakes will have a greater abundance of forage and large predator fish are less apt to cooperate. Flowages in particular which are steady producers most of the year see only limited November action unless there is a limited forage base or a migration downstream above a dam.
Besides clear water the second important factor is rocks. On many clear lakes rocks are the only form of structure available on the lake. By November weeds are dead and don't play an important part in fish location. The last remaining forage can be found relating to rock. By rocks I am referring to both offshore structure and shoreline rocks. These same areas may only hold a few transit fish throughout summer and early fall. On certain days you will find fish relating to the rocks but they don't hold there for extended periods of time. Basically they move in and out. Once the temperature drops below 48 degrees more and more forage fish move into the rocks. Since all types of forage fish move into the rocks expect all types of predator fish to be present. Walleye, musky, smallmouth, largemouth and pike may all be present on the same structure. Not only will you find an abundance of fish, but trophy fish as well. A lake does not have an abundance of rock to be productive. If too much rock is present in the lake finding fish can be difficult. Look for lakes with only a few rocks piles or rocky points. A fisherman must also understand that all rocks are different. Your favorite rock shoreline that held fish in spring might not be productive in November. However, on other lakes the same rock shoreline can be productive. Rock shorelines with access to deep water are most productive. Shallow rock flats are only productive if they are the only rock available within the lake.
Smallmouth bass tend to school up heavily in November as they relate to deep rocks. Once they are found, the fishing can be fantastic, since they school up according to size. Even the smallest rock point or hump can hold a number of big smallmouth. Big smallmouth will suspend off the rocks and are easy to locate with your electronics. Look for smallmouth to relate to the 20 to 25 foot depths. Once these smallmouth are found position your boat over the fish. If the wind is strong, anchor your boat, upwind allowing you to cast to the marked fish. The most productive method is to position your boat over the fish with your electric trolling motor. Hold atop the fish and vertical jig. I use both live and artificial bait presentations and the wise fisherman will also use both methods. A jig and chub combo is hard for any hawg smallmouth to pass up. If the bite is light use a Aberdeen hook with a small split shot about 12 inches above the chub. Plastics are also effective but a slow retrieve is a must. Use a six foot six medium light action rod like a Lamiglas Certified Pro XS 66 DH.
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Walleyes will also relate to rocks but are less likely to suspend. If smallmouth are not present in the lake then walleyes can suspend. Walleyes will also relate to much deeper structure than smallmouth. It is common to find walleyes as deep as 35 feet on many clear water lakes.
Pike and musky can also be feeding off rock structure although they are solitary fish. Both live and artificial presentations are effective.
Both clear and overcast days can be productive depending on the conditions. I have had my greatest success on clear lakes under stable weather patterns or just before a front. Bluebird skies after a front passes can mean tough fishing for all species. Those overcast conditions just prior to a front can be signal trophy time. These are the days notorious for producing trophy musky.
Once November arrives don't put the boat away. Remember, this is trophy time and take advantage of every last minute. It may seem like punishment at times but once you get a big fish on, you will forget all your discomfort.
The Fall Bite
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The only problem I have in October is deciding what to fish for. Whether you are after a 40 pound musky, a 12-pound walleye or six pound smallmouth, the time is right in October. Sure there are those diehard fishermen who only chase after on specie. However, there are many like myself who prefer to fish for all species. This means taking advantage of every minute and spending your time wisely. This is no time to check out new water. Fisherman will do best by fishing water they know is productive and has produced trophy fish in the past.
Each year fisherman put in their time in hopes of landing a trophy musky in the fall. Pick a lake or flowage with a quality musky fishery that has produced trophy fish in the past. In the early part of October I will fish one of the many flowages in my area. As long as the water temperature stays above 40 degrees most of these flowages will see active muskies. The weedlines with access to the deepest parts of the flowage will hold the largest muskies. Both deep diving crankbaits and jerkbaits are productive baits. If you are fishing with a partner make sure you use both presentations. The best fishing will occur from mid day through the late afternoon.
I must admit that on some days you can go through every lure in the box without a follow, only to boat a big fish with a sucker. While guiding I feel that my odds of boating a musky are greatly decreased if we don't bring along sucker. The problem is many musky anglers don't effectively fish suckers. They usually toss out a big sucker on a float behind the boat without any consideration as to the structure they are fishing. I will fish two suckers at various depths to cover the bottom and top of the strike zone. One sucker is set at 5 to 10 foot depths while the other is five foot off the bottom. I use only quick strike rigs, since we are concerned about releasing the fish.
Once the water temperature drops below 40 degrees on your favorite flowage move over to a clear water natural lake. These lakes will produce right until ice up or the close of the season whichever comes first. Deep structure, points and weedlines are all productive, since these areas are close to deep water. Deep diving crankbaits are an effective presentation with my favorite being the Hydro Minnow Muskie by Yo-Zuri. The finish on these crankbaits is augmented by the oversized 3D eyes, integral gill plates and etched lateral line. http://www.yo-zuri.com/ Large plastic baits can also effective since they enable you to work all levels of the water column. My rod of choice when fishing crankbaits is a Lamiglas LGM 70 MH. http://www.lamiglas.com/
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The best feeding periods on natural lakes in the late occur at late afternoon. However, on overcast days muskies can move throughout the day. Like flowages don't go on the water without suckers.
Smallmouth also can put on the feedbag big time in the late fall. Choosing the proper lake is important. Clear water lakes with limited structure and a restricted forage base are the key. Many deep clear water lakes are home to giant smallmouth. However, in summer and early fall large fish are difficult to locate let alone catch them. By late October and early November food is limited and large smallmouth will school up. Once you locate the primary forage base on the lake smallmouth won't be far behind. Finding spawning ciscos is the key to smallmouth location. Besides having a population of big smallmouth it should be a lake void of muskies. Muskies will dominate the food chain and smallmouth movements will be unpredictable.
Don't make the mistake of only fishing big lakes. Small clear water lakes can hold a population of large smallmouth. Each year I boat a number of 20 inch plus smallmouth from a lake only 200-acres. This small lake which name I can't mention has a smelt forages base. A healthy smallmouth population exists since the walleye population has been decimated by spearing and over harvest. These smaller lakes are easier to fish with smallmouth schooling up and holding in one or two areas of the lake.
Forage is very limited on smaller lakes. In late fall these baitfish populations are dwindled and food is limited. Once you hone in on the forage you should find smallmouth. Use your electronics to spot schools of baitfish. These areas will be any offshore structure, shoreline points and steep shorelines. With cover limited you can find schools of big smallmouth stacking up over this cover. This was a similar situation that I mentioned earlier.
Don't make the mistake of only fishing big lakes.
Red tail chubs are my number one live bait for big smallmouth. I have had only limited success with suckers. However, if live bait is hard to obtain use what you can get. Mark a school of smallmouth and vertical jig with a jig and minnow combo. It is important to use the lightest jig possible, so you can feel the slightest pick up. If the bite is light use a plain Aberdeen hook with just enough weight to get the minnow to the bottom.
October is a time of plenty when it comes to boating large fish of all species. As I mentioned at the start of the article sometimes it is tough to decide which specie to chase.
Early Summer Crankbaits
While fishing is seldom easy, there are times when finding a productive pattern requires less effort. Spending most of my life on the water I have seen many patterns change from year to year. Much depends on water levels, weather and forage, the things out of the angler's control. For me, figuring out the pattern is often a challenge that is more rewarding than the catching.
 However, there are a few distinct patterns that I can count on like clockwork, which is important when you fish for a living. One pattern that has proven effective for me throughout the years is cranking the weeds during early summer. The best thing about this pattern is that is works in all types of water and for all species.
After spawning river smallmouth will recover quickly and go on the feed. With weeds being limited on most rivers, any weedgrowth at all can attract a huge concentration of smallmouth. A crankbait will quickly let you know if smallmouth are present. If you fail to catch a smallmouth with a crankbait, the odds are that no smallmouth are present.
Smallmouth will hit a variety of crankbaits and different retrieves, so you will need to fish the area effectively. Some smallmouth will be holding over shallow weeds while others will hold along the weedline at the same time, and both are aggressive. You could have a situation where you will catch five smallmouth on five different presentations.
I use both wood and plastic baits with much depending on the weather and weeds.
That is why I prefer Yo-Zuri crankbaits since they are the most versatile on the market. The Yo-Zuri live bait series crankbaits are deadly on smallmouth bass. This May I had great success with Twitch'n Minnow and can't wait to use them on the river this summer. The flexible soft body, exciting dipping and diving action makes it irresistible to any smallmouth. www.yo-zuri.com
On many walleye lakes the weed bite can be phenomenal. While most anglers are aware of the weed bite they can have trouble locating walleyes. Tossing out a slip bobber and a leech may work fine once you locate walleyes but it can also be a waste of time. That is where crankbaits are deadly. For covering weeds quickly it is hard to beat either a Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow or a Crank'n Shad. Use the Floating Crystal minnow over the weeds, the sinking Crystal minnow over the edges and the Crank'n Shad along the weedline.
 The right equipment will make crankbait fishing more effective. If your rod is too light you won't get a good hookset and you will also be working harder than need be. I prefer a medium action 6' 6" casting rod like a Lamiglas XC 661 when fishing shallow weeds. www.lamiglas.com The new Lamiglas XMG 50 series, in particular the EXC 705 would also be a great choice. My reel is spooled with 10 or 12 pound Yo-Zuri Tournament Hardcore X-Tex Cobra or Yo-Zuri Hybrid.
For musky hunters June is a time for numbers. While you might not catch a wallhanger when you do locate a musky the odds of catching that fish are high. Find a fresh cabbage bed in early June and I can guarantee that muskies will be roaming the area.
Twitching shallow running crankbaits not only produces lots of muskies but it is also a fun way to fish. The weeds are sparse and you can easily twitch a bait over the fresh cabbage. Under sunny warming weather the cabbage can grow quickly and change on a daily basis. Look for open pockets within the cabbage to hold the active muskies. The weedline will hold more muskies but they tend to be less aggressive.
When twitching the crankbait over the cabbage be prepared at all times. While guiding I watch many of my clients miss a fish because they are not ready for the strike. Strikes can occur right when the bait hits the water. Make a low cast to ensure as little slack in the line as possible. Start with a slow short twitch and gradually lengthen your twitch and speed up the retrieve.
The right equipment will make crankbait fishing more effective.
I use both wood and plastic baits with much depending on the weather and weeds. A wood bait like a Crane Bait is buoyant and will ride easily over the top of the weeds. The slower action of the wood bait is also deadly after a cold front. However a plastic bait like a Jake is deadly when muskies require a bit more noise and erratic retrieve. A 6' 6" or 7 foot rod, like a Lamiglas LGM 66 XH or a LGM 70 MH works well and is a personal preference.
So whether you are looking for walleye, bass or musky, find some weeds and toss a few crankbaits. This early summer pattern has proven consistent for me year after year. If you give it a try it should also be good to you.
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